Update: That old trick with the heat gun on a seized bleed valve actually saved my butt yesterday.

Had a 737's valve stuck solid for an hour, but a quick, careful heat cycle with my Milwaukee gun got it moving without a single thread damaged. Anyone got a better method for these stubborn ones?

4 comments

4 Comments

finleym3722d ago

Heat is a classic for a reason, but the real trick is knowing when to back off and let the penetrant do its job. I've seen guys cook a valve until the packing smokes, which just makes a new problem. A little heat, then a few solid taps with a brass hammer on the body (not the stem) often breaks the corrosion seal. Letting it cool completely before trying to turn it again seems to help the threads let go.

jana50916h ago

Pat's got a point about the water, but quenching can be risky on cast iron. Letting it cool on its own is safer, the thermal shock can crack the body.

hayes.wade22d ago

Honestly, a guy at our shop swears by heating just the valve body with a small torch for 30 seconds, then immediately quenching it with a spray bottle of water. The quick shrink can crack the corrosion without cooking the packing.

pat_harris21d ago

Tried that once on a seized gate valve. Worked like a charm, but you gotta be real quick with the water. Almost turned it into a permanent decoration.